Tuk-tuks, Wats and Bangkok

I did some intelligence gathering before we left, asking anyone who had been to the places we were going if they had any guidance, tips or recommendations. The one piece of advice that kept coming up over and over again was this: Bangkok is a shit hole. Don't stay there longer than 24 hours. And it's true. It's the kind of place that is so hot you want to wear flip flops, but is so dirty you dare not expose your feet... an enticing combo if there ever was one.

However - not one person let us in on the secret that Thailand's capital city is also the "Venice of the East"... tres romantique!

Sadly, though, while Venice's canal water is probably made of wine, Bangkok's canals are its sewers. Hmph. No worries, though, we were mostly taking the boat ride on the Chao Phraya River and it's adjacent waterways to experience the Floating Market... a supposedly totally chaotic scene of small vendors aggressively maneuvering their boats to bargain for the most baht.

Ours was a market of one, though. I'm still not sure where everyone was on a Thursday early in the afternoon. We spent about five minutes haggling down the exorbitant price the one old lady out on the water had quoted for two magnets and a beer... which we still ended up paying around $10 for.

All was not lost, though, because our boat ride eventually brought us to our first Buddhist temple of the trip, Wat Arunratchawararam Ratchaworamahawihan... or Wat Arun for short.

We said 'khob-khun-ka' to our boat driver ('thank you,' feminine form) and got the hell out of Bangkok on a flight to the most northern province, Chiang Rai.

Negotiating the price of the ride

Can you spot me in this tuk-tuk?

On the mighty Chao Phraya River (we kept our mouths closed most of the time so sewer water couldn't get in)

Wat Arun, Temple of the Dawn

MMA + MEM = LUV

I've never been into Asian guys that way, but we just attended a Muay Thai fight and those guys were all hot. And Ralph and I both agree that the only two white guys (Canada and France, respectively) in any of the bouts were brought in to make their opponents look really good.

I've never seen any kind of fight live--of course, not counting the wrestlers of Rye High oozing teenage machismo--and at first thought I would be disturbed by the brutal force. I've taken kick boxing exercise classes, but I've never seen an actual roundhouse to the kidney before! It looks like it hurts very much. But it was so entertaining! And at the end the fighters respectfully hugged it out! (Except for the Canadian who couldn't walk and the Frenchman who likely was concussed... they had to leave the ring immediately for medical attention... hope they have travelers medical insurance!)

Also, the Chinese contenders in tonight's fight were machines. It kept making me think about how Olympic commentators for gymnastics are always like "the government plucked this Chinese gymnast from her village as a little girl and all she has ever known is a gymnasium. She thinks of the beam as her mom and the parallel bars as her brother and sister." See where I'm going with this?

When I get back to San Francisco I'm going to see if there are any Muay Thai fights in town... I mean, as the Ellis Island of the West, there must be.

In other news, we don't have really any other news. We just arrived in Bangkok last night and were previously spending all of our time laying on the beach and reading. This is what we were working with:

Reading on the beach, but not on the sand with the bugs

Our bungalow at Dolphin Bungalows

Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai beach

More Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai beach

Stormy skies at Ibiza Bungalows

Moped!!

'Nuff said

Ao Chaloklum beach

Me and Ralph! In the country where they train their fighters like machines...

Sawatdee Khrab!

Ralph and I finally made it to the beach! And we aren't wearing the same clothes that we were wearing for four days straight! Mama's happy.

After staying awake all night and seeing Dave Chappelle start out strong and then bomb at Cobb's Comedy Club, we left our apartment in San Francisco at 9 a.m. local time on Saturday, April 16, and were in the same clothes until the afternoon of Tuesday, April 19. The reason was not so much because we wanted to really get into the grimy backpacker spirit, but more because Air China "didn't have us in their system." So a four hour layover in Beijing became a 28 hour layover, and included two pump-fake "maybe we can get you a seat on standby." They could not.

At around 9 p.m. on Sunday evening Ralph and I booked the cheapest airport hotel room we could find... and it was disgusting. We hoped that staying up all night on Friday night would help our jet lag, and it did, so we awoke around 9 a.m. and headed downtown to see Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. We weren't really sure of the best option to get there since I had done no research on Beijing whatsoever, but after the tourist desk said they could arrange a $200 car for us for the day, we took their city map and saw we were 100 yards from the start of the subway system and so decided on public transportation at a handsome price of $16 round trip for the both of us. On the non-peak hours we were traveling, it was just one notch down from this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w01yQ_idLw. The Forbidden City was very cool... all I can say is that it was like being inside a gigantic, beautiful Russian nesting doll with a narcissism problem... so many squares and palaces, I needed a rest just looking at the rooms left unseen on our audio tour.

Then we got on our flight that landed in Bangkok at midnight on Tuesday morning. We had already booked a flight down to Surat Thani for 7 a.m. and decided the best plan was to just sleep on the floor of the airport. It was a really nice airport, better than most in the States, and other people were sleeping there, too... but it totally killed all the work we had done trying to get adjusted to the time zone. When we landed in Surat Thani we took an hour long shuttle van ride to the docks (they played Iron Man 2 during the ride) and got on a high speed Catamaran just like the Bomba Charger in the British Virgin Islands (a boat that a few years ago made me seek out Stugeron, a motion sickness pill not approved in the US, but I might take up a battle cry for). This boat was much slower and the water wasn't choppy so I didn't get sick, hooray! Earlier in the day we had decided to go to a smaller island off of the bigger island Koh Samui, and so upon disembarkation we took a taxi to the Haad Yao beaches of Ko Pha-Ngan.

We didn't know where we were going to stay, but Lonely Planet suggested Ibiza Bungalows (http://ibizabungalow.resort.phanganbungalows.com/) so there we walked... sweating our asses off the whole 50 yards from where the cab had dropped us. The bungalows are very basic, in the way that there is just a bed and cold water-only shower head over the toilet. But the bathrooms are clean and don't have other people's hair in it like the Beijing hotel's did, so I'm thrilled. Ibiza's restaurant also has the best food. We're definitely coming home with Buddha bellies. We also have a view of the beach right from our front porch, which I love... and all for around $17 a night! Yesterday we rented a moped and drove around the whole eastern coast of the island. It is gorgeous! And very hot! This morning Ralph taught me how to drive one. I think we'll be renting mopeds again soon. Today we just hung out at the beach and had our first Thai massage (on the beach)... which was again a rewarding price of $8/massage. (To every friend I have, get your head out of the gutter.)

I can't finish without giving a shout out to our girl, Lisbeth Salandar. I'm on the third book in Stieg Larsson's trilogy and Ralph just finished yesterday. She's like our third travel companion.

Tomorrow we're heading to the other side of the island for a few more days of sun and reading. Then we're probably heading to Chiang Rai in the northern province and may meet up with our friends Michelle and Breck who are on an extended trip.

Thanks for listening! :) We'll write more in a couple days.

xoxo

Megan

Let's Talk About Rabies

I just injected one-third of my last paycheck into my arm, and am about to spend a couple hundred more on antimalarial drugs, but none of those medicines will protect me from rabies... an outbreak of which has been going on in Bali for the last two years, resulting in over 100 human deaths (according to the CDC). So along with the sun and surf, watch out for foaming mammalian fangs!

Nurse Rhonda was the one who scared the shit out of me this afternoon. It makes sense, though, knowing her background. She got burned as a kid... a feral cat bit her brother and once her dad shot the cat dead they had it tested and it was rabid. All the kids living on and near her family farm then had to undergo a 14 day rabies treatment at the University of Illinois. But it's a good thing they did, because as Nurse Rhonda impressed upon me... you will die within 24 hours of being bitten without an antidote.

Why no protection from rabies when faced with this information? Because I'm a last-minute kind of girl and waited too long to go to the Adult Immunization & Travel Clinic. If you're going to an area where you'll be at risk, I would recommend leaving a buffer of four weeks to get protected.

Because of my attitude of deferring errands to later which I could have done today, I am also only 0% - 40% covered for Japanese Encephalitis, a mosquito-borne disease I just heard about today that can, in fact, "progress to paralysis, seizures, coma and death." (Again, thanks to the CDC.) There was no time for the second shot in the series before I go, and no one really knows for sure how effective just having one shot is.

Which leads me to the action item Rhonda recommended but in all phases of planning until now I have dismissed... Travel Health Insurance. Doesn't that sound expensive? She said I'll need it for the evacuation off Bali if/when I get bitten by a bat, dog, monkey, etc. to quickly get to Singapore, Bangkok or some other locale with "more advanced" health care.

Yeesh. This has seriously brought me back to reality, but has not yet killed off the significant excitement that's swirling around. Now I need to research two good travel insurance options I've heard about, EMF Insurance Agency and American Express. Let me know if you have any suggestions!

Yours in health,
Megan